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Top 5 Acids in Skincare (& What They Actually Do)

Top 5 Acids in Skincare (& What They Actually Do)

Not all skincare acids work the same way. Some exfoliate, some help support the skin barrier, and others provide hydration or conditioning benefits. Understanding the role of each acid can help professionals build more targeted skincare collections and recommend products based on individual skin concerns.

Here are five of the most versatile acid categories found in modern skincare.

1. Glycolic Acid

Best for: Dullness, uneven texture, rough skin, and visible signs of aging.

As the smallest alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), glycolic acid penetrates the skin efficiently to help loosen the bonds between dead skin cells. Regular use can improve skin texture, promote a brighter-looking complexion, and help soften the appearance of fine lines over time.

Because of its effectiveness, glycolic acid is commonly found in cleansers, toners, serums, masks, and body care products.

Product Spotlight: Glycolic Renewal Cleanser

Our Glycolic Renewal Cleanser combines effective cleansing with gentle exfoliation, helping remove daily buildup while promoting smoother, more radiant-looking skin.

2. Mandelic Acid

Best for: Sensitive skin, blemish-prone skin, uneven tone, and beginners to chemical exfoliation.

Derived from bitter almonds, mandelic acid has a larger molecular size than glycolic acid, allowing it to exfoliate more gradually. This slower penetration often makes it a preferred choice for sensitive skin types or those looking for a gentler exfoliating experience.

Mandelic acid is frequently used in clarifying and brightening formulations.

Product Spotlight: PHA Skin Refining Toner

Our PHA Skin Refining Toner features mandelic acid alongside additional exfoliating and clarifying ingredients to help promote a smoother, clearer-looking complexion.

3. Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs)

Best for: Dry, sensitive, or compromised skin.

Polyhydroxy acids offer gentle surface exfoliation while also attracting moisture to the skin. Their larger molecular structure makes them less likely to cause irritation than many traditional exfoliating acids, making them an excellent option for clients seeking brighter skin without aggressive exfoliation.

PHAs work particularly well in daily-use formulas designed to support smoother, more refined-looking skin.

Product Spotlights: Daily PHA Gentle Renewal Serum

This serum provides gentle exfoliation while supporting hydration and everyday skin renewal.

4. Hypochlorous Acid

Best for: Post-treatment care, compromised skin, and refreshing the skin throughout the day.

Unlike exfoliating acids, hypochlorous acid is naturally produced by the body's immune system as part of its defense process. In skincare, it has become increasingly popular for helping support a balanced skin environment and refreshing the skin after exercise, shaving, professional treatments, or daily environmental exposure.

Its lightweight, no-rinse format makes it one of the most versatile products in modern skincare routines.

Product Spotlight: Hypochlorous Acid Face & Body Spray

Designed for daily use, this refreshing spray helps support healthier-looking skin while fitting seamlessly into both skincare and body care routines.

5. Amino Acids

Best for: Hydration, barrier support, and maintaining healthy-looking skin.

Although technically the building blocks of proteins rather than exfoliating acids, amino acids play an essential role in skincare. Many occur naturally within the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), where they help attract and retain moisture while supporting overall skin health.

They're commonly incorporated into moisturizers, serums, cleansers, and eye treatments to improve hydration and skin comfort.

Product Spotlight: Collagen Aminos Hydrating Eye Cream

Formulated with amino acids and hydrating ingredients, this eye cream helps replenish moisture while supporting smoother, healthier-looking skin around the delicate eye area.

Choosing the Right Acid for the Right Goal

Each acid serves a different purpose, which is why many modern skincare collections incorporate more than one.

Skin Goal Acid to Consider
Improve texture and radiance Glycolic Acid
Gentle exfoliation Mandelic Acid
Sensitive skin exfoliation Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs)
Refresh and support skin after shaving or treatments Hypochlorous Acid
Hydration and barrier support Amino Acids

 

Rather than thinking of skincare acids as interchangeable, it's more helpful to view them as specialized tools. Some promote exfoliation and visible skin renewal, while others focus on hydration, barrier support, or maintaining a balanced skin environment. By understanding what each acid contributes, professionals can build more complete skincare collections that address a wider range of skin types and concerns.

Related Content: Blue Tansy Oil in the Treatment Room, Ceramides in Skincare, Sensitive Skin Protocol, Barrier Support Skincare, Ten Ingredients for Barrier Repair, Blue Tansy Oil in Professional Treatments, Ceramides Skin Care